When designing a custom made suit for the first time, there are 5 key things you should consider: Your tailor, your fit, your lapel style, your slacks style, and the finishing details.
There are three people that every man needs to have on speed dial, a doctor, a lawyer, and a tailor. If this is your first time venturing into the world of custom, you want to make sure you are going to a respected tailor who you can trust. When looking for a tailor, a good place to start is with online reviews and referrals from your friends. Once you’ve narrowed down your search, look closely for quality, outstanding customer service, awards and recognition, tradition and a focus on custom experience.
Fit is one of the most important aspects of a custom suit. If the fit isn’t up to snuff, you might as well have gotten an off-the-rack suit. Communication with your tailor is the best way to insure you get the fit you want. Hate the boxy look? Then opt for a modern cut where the jacket is narrowest at the waist. If you prefer a roomier fit, then tell your tailor you prefer comfort to style.
3.) Lapel Style
There are couple things to consider when choosing which lapel style is right for you. A notch lapel is the most commonly worn lapel in a business environment. A peak lapel is a little trendier and is likely to go in and out of style more frequently.
The width of a lapel can range from over 5 inches to around 2 inches wide. The width can change the look of a suit entirely. For a classic look, stick with a 3 inch wide notch lapel. For something a little more modern try a 4-1/2 wide peak lapel or a 2-1/2 inch wide notch lapel.
4.) Slack Style
Typically your slack style will correspond with the fit you chose for your suit. If you decided to go with a modern fit, you will likely want flat front slack with no cuffs. Removing pleats from your slacks allows for a trimmer slack leg. If you prefer a roomier fit with a traditional feel then pleats and cuffs are your best option. Pleats give you more room throughout the leg and are usually more comfortable than a flat front slack.
5.) The Finishing Details
The finishing details transform a basic suit into something more interesting and unique. Whether its hand-cut button holes, a lapel buttonhole, a ticket pocket, handpick stitching along the lapel or different thread color for the button holes on you suit, the details are what distinguishes your suit from everyone else’s.