How to Style a Custom Suit

One of the best ways to answer this is with a famous quote from Yves Saint-Laurent, “Fashions fade, style is eternal.”

Fashion compared to style is the difference between a leisure suit and a classic three-piece. It’s the difference between a bolo tie and a satin bow tie. Fashion changes seasonally, and has the potential to lose popularity while style is never dated.

Too often, people assume that wearing the latest fashion trends single-handedly gives them style. In actuality, it is better to delicately incorporate the latest trends into your style so that they add value rather than limitations.

As custom clothiers we are constantly working on finding the balance between scale, individual proportions, and what’s in fashion. The most successful styles are the ones that are unique to you but identifiable to others.

For those of you who are fashion enthusiasts, here’s what’s trending.


Trim Fit

Say goodbye to double pleats and oversized shoulder pads, because the boxy suit is officially dead. Today’s suits are all about highlighting your shape and accentuating the sleek v-cut look.

To successfully achieve this look, proportion is key. Your jacket should hug the contour of your chest and become narrowest at your waist. For your slacks, opt for a flat front style with a narrow leg. This will compliment the trimness of your jacket.

If you prefer a looser fit, find a jacket that has a slight taper at the waist rather than a boxy straight fit.


The Wide Peak Lapel

Deciding between a notch and peak lapel is like deciding between a black or red Ferrari. Neither choice is wrong, but one definitely draws more attention than the other.

The peak lapel is the red Ferrari of lapel styles. Considered to be a modern, European-inspired look, wide peak lapels are less common than the classic notch lapel.

There are, however, a couple downsides to wearing wide peak lapels. The first, not everyone has the right proportions for this particular lapel width. It is better suited for men with broader shoulders and a prominent chest. For those who are narrow up top, take in the width of the lapel and replace it with a semi-peak. This will look better on your build and help prevent your suit from going out of style next season.


The Ticket Pocket 

A British staple, the ticket pocket was originally created for equestrians to store money so they wouldn’t have to unbutton their jackets when paying for tolls.

Over time, the ticket pocket became more and more prevalent, and today it is a styling favorite for many high-fashion designers.

Located above the right hip pocket, the ticket pocket is smaller in size and can be sewn on an angle to accentuate the v-cut look of the suit. Typically a bolder look, the ticket pocket is more commonly seen on modern suits.

If you’re not sold on the ticket pocket, you can tone down the look by creating a jetted pocket. The jetted pocket removes the flap and is less noticeable than the traditional ticket pocket.


All of the aforementioned fashion trends are great for making a statement with your suit.  More importantly, finding the right balance between what’s in style and what works best for you, makes an even stronger impact.


Sonny BalaniHow to Style a Custom Suit