Charcoal Suit vs. Navy Suit

Charcoal vs. Navy
When it comes to purchasing your first custom suit, the important thing to consider is versatility. Being that it will be the only custom suit in your wardrobe, it is likely that you’ll be wearing it for a variety of events.  Whether you’re going to a job interview, a business meeting or a wedding, this suit must transition effortlessly into each scenario.

So, what color suit should you buy first?  For most people, it’s a toss up between a solid charcoal and a solid navy suit. While a strong argument can be made for each suit, our personal preference is to start with a charcoal suit and add a navy suit second.

Our reasoning for this is simple. Not only is charcoal incredibly versatile, it also conveys the appearance of confidence, loyalty and strength making it a fundamental piece of your professional wardrobe. What makes charcoal so versatile is its ability to be dressed up or down with almost any color or pattern. Also charcoal matches beautifully with black, brown, burgundy, and chestnut shoes.

When it’s time to decide upon a particular fabric, our recommendation is to go with a classic sharkskin. The Sharkskin pattern is achieved by basket weaving darker threads with white thread thereby, giving it the impression of having a subtle two-toned appearance. Sharkskin is considered a solid, but its intricate weave gives the fabric more texture and dimension and ultimately makes it more interesting to the eye.

When you’re looking to dress the suit up for an important event, simply add a crisp white button down, a bold tie, and a black belt. For a more casual look, switch out the white shirt for a bold check and pair it with a canvas belt and open collar. Whether you are wearing a bold pattern, a heavy texture, or a basic solid, a charcoal suit will keep you looking dapper every step of the way.

Sonny BalaniCharcoal Suit vs. Navy Suit
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How to Upgrade Your Wardrobe for 2013

New Year New You JPG
It’s officially the start of 2013, and the best part about the New Year, is the opportunity for a fresh start. It is the reason why we take it upon ourselves to make a new year’s resolution, or add new workout regimes to our weekly routine, or try to hit new goals at work. It’s the reason we ditch the tired clothes of our past and indulge with fresh looks for the New Year.

One thing we all learned from the movies, is that the ‘nerd’ can become ‘the cool guy’ simply by cutting his hair, taking off his glasses and putting on some new clothes. It’s why we feel an increase of sense confidence when we put on a new suit. It’s why we reach for our favorite shirt, or lucky tie when we get dressed for a big meeting or hot date.  There’s an undeniable sense of confidence when we wear something new and let’s face it, there’s something to be said for kicking off the New Year in style.

Here are the three things your should add to your custom wardrobe this year.

1.) ‘A-Game’ Suit

What’s an A-Game suit you’re wondering? It’s the one suit you reach for when you know you want to look and feel like a badass. It may not be appropriate for every occasion, but that’s not the point.  This particular suit is great when you need to leave a lasting impression or make a statement, because when you feel like you look good, others take notice and think you look good too.

2.) Custom Dress Shirts

Add a little life to your wardrobe by incorporating new colors and patterns to your basic solids.  Sure, the basics are good for work, but you have a life outside of work and your wardrobe should reflect that.  Pick out new fabrics that are better suited to your lifestyle. Do you wear a button down dress shirt and sport coat with jeans when you go out? Then pair your basic sport coat with a bold checked pattern or dark gingham plaid.  Don’t be afraid to step out of your white and blue comfort zone.

3.) Custom Sport Coat (Patterned)

While the classic navy blazer is a wonderful staple for your wardrobe, sometimes your lifestyle requires a little something extra. Find a pattern that is bold but also complimentary to a variety of pant options. Whether you are wearing slacks or jeans, the sport coat should be the statement piece of your outfit. When pairing your bold sport coat with a shirt, opt for a subtle pattern and be sure to keep in mind the scale of the pattern.

Sonny BalaniHow to Upgrade Your Wardrobe for 2013
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Flat Front vs. Pleated Pants

Flat Front vs Pleated image
Flat Front vs. Pleated Slacks

Whether you’re purchasing your first custom suit or a pair of custom slacks, it can be somewhat difficult to decide on whether you should opt for a flat front or pleated look.  There are a few things to consider when making this judgment call.

1.) What kind of fit do you want your suit to have?

When designing a custom suit, it is important to keep all of the proportions balanced. If you prefer a trim cut jacket, think early 60’s, or Mad Men-like, then your slacks should match accordingly. Flat front slacks are the best option for a trim cut suit. When going with a flat front, your custom tailor is able to cut your slacks trimmer in the thigh and knees.

If you prefer a more traditional fit, with a little more room to spare, then pleats are a much better option.

2.) What do you prefer comfort or fashion?

Currently, flat front pants are “in style.” They give the wearer a trimmer look and elongate the legs by removing any excess fabric throughout the thighs and knees. Most modern designers (aka, Hugo Boss, Marc Jacobs, Prada) make very trim cut suits with flat front slacks.

If you prefer comfort to fashion, then pleats are definitely the route you should go. Pleated pants are cut much wider throughout the leg and have a much more spacious feel than flat front pants. In order for pleated slacks to drape cleanly and for the pleats not to pop open, the thigh must have enough fabric to prevent pulling. This extra fabric will often be more comfortable for men when they are moving around and sitting at a desk.

3.) Do you like cuffs?

The rule of thumb says that if you have flat front pants, you should not have cuffs. Most fashion experts feel that cuffs only belong on pleated pants, because flat front pants are considered to be a continental European tradition and cuffs are of Anglo-American origin, therefore mixing these two styles is considered improper.

Despite these rules, our opinion is that if you know the rules, then its ok to bend them. The beneifit of having your slacks custom made, is that you have the ability to style them however you like. If you are a fan of cuffs and not pleats – then by all means, go for it.

Sonny BalaniFlat Front vs. Pleated Pants
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