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The Full Press

July 8, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File

There is one thing that is never in style: wrinkles.
With the exception of linen, this is the rule. So if you’re wearing a suit be sure to make an effort to keep it pressed. While wearing a suit all day won’t leave the garment flawless in appearance, there are certain steps you can take to help.

Sure, the obvious response is to take the suit to the cleaners and have it dry cleaned after every wear. It’ll look great… for a little while. Unlike normal washing, dry cleaning uses an aggressive chemical solvent to clean the fabric. It can wear down the fabric, causing the colors to bleed and fade if the temperature is too hot, with the fabric certainly losing it’s luster. Cleaning a suit more than a few times a year is overkill.

Instead, take your suit the cleaners and ask them to “Steam Press.” It’ll give the garment a fresh feel, without the chemical harshness. The clothing is draped across a professional pressing machine (standard to almost all dry cleaners) where bursts of steam are pulled through the fabric.

The high heat will remove wrinkles, small spots, and any odors the suit has picked up over time. This is all done without compromising the softness or color of the fabric. Just be weary of suits that are glued together, as most off-the-rack suits are. The glue has a tendency to melt (this is true even when dry cleaning), shortening the life span of the suit. As long as the suit is a full canvas construction, the Balani standard, you’ll be pressed and ready to dress.

The New Navy Pinstripe

June 2, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File No comments

The power suit is back. And best of all, it left the giant cell phone and shoulder pads back in the 80’s. While it’s true that some classics are timeless, it’s also true that sometimes classics can be dated. With that said, consider The New Navy Pinstripe: the executive suit for modern style.
Defining what a power suit is may seem like a difficult task. Is it a dark fabric? Does it have to have pinstripes? Regardless of what’s conjured up, there’s really no right answer, so long as it gives you confidence when it’s on your back. It’s the “go-to” suit in the wardrobe when work needs to get done. It just so happens that most guys feel great in a dark suit with a pinstripe, so it’s not a bad image to hold on to.

This season, rather than just the basic navy with a gray stripe, consider re-imagining it. A contemporary navy, one that’s not as drone in tone, with a distinguished pinstripe (perhaps one in a lighter blue) hints at newness. This is all accomplished without losing its professionalism, from the boardroom to box seats.

And don’t hesitate to invigorate the look by wearing a coordinating vest. The old adage that two heads are better than one is not much different than the clothier’s adage that 3-pieces are better than two. With the right fabric, the right cut, and the right attitude, the New Navy Pinstripe is sure to be the new power suit.

The Modern Glen Plaid

May 5, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File

Anyone can work the Mad Men look: black suit, white shirt, skinny tie. Then there’s the somewhat edgier pinstripe in the repertoire. But beyond the basics, what else is there? Perhaps it’s time to move into something more advanced: The Modern Glen Plaid.
Let’s start off by thinking about the glen plaid. Conceptualized in Scotland before the advent of text messaging (sometime during the 1800’s), it’s essentially a check-over-check design that finds a houndstooth pattern where their paths cross. The classic is best known for it’s black & white pattern, but it’s just that: classic glen plaid. How can it be made modern?

Color, that’s how. Maintain the same pattern, but re-imagine the color. Start slowly by integrating blue into the design, something as simple as a windowpane. Think purples if you want to move quicker. A heightened sense of color and pattern will not only make this piece contemporary, but tosses in a bit of versatility to the mix.

Used most often as a sport coat, it’s best kept lean. Pair it with a charcoal pant for casual Friday. Consider it with a bluer blue pant for a more dapper look. Dress it down denim. Whatever the situation calls for, the Modern Glen Plaid is sure to add something new to any established wardrobe.

Sport It

April 1, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File

Whether it’s box seats with coworkers or a casual dinner with clients, it’s time to realize that boat shoes and a polo just won’t cut it anymore. Then again, there are times when a navy suit just doesn’t cut it. So play it safe this summer with the business casual clutch play: The Sport Coat.
When we say sport coat, we’re not talking about that navy blue blazer (read: brass buttons) that you got two sizes too big just because it was on sale. Today’s sport coats can have more personality; cut it with shape, custom detailing, and in a simple pattern or color. Then consider what to put underneath it.

Under the jacket you’ll need a collared shirt with buttons from top to bottom. That means no t-shirts or polo’s. Why? You’ll want a dressier shirt underneath in case the sport coat needs to be benched. Take a swing with color and pattern on this one, or keep it crisp and white. Just be sure to fit it right; it’ll make a statement without saying a word.

Keep it professional by tucking in the shirt, just make sure it’s not into some cotton chino. In fact, ditch cotton all together and opt for dress slacks. That means a wool pant in a contrasting color. While the mere mention of wool might make you itch and sweat, be aware that it wicks moisture away better than cotton and can be softer.

To finish it off, consider the shoes. If you can comfortably walk a 5k in them, you’ll probably need something dressier. Opt for a pair in all leather, in classic black or brown. A thinner, slimmer sole will compliment the modern ensemble. Follow this play by play for the sartorial score at the next company outing.

Out with the Cold, in with the New

March 3, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File

It’s time for change. No, not the political rhetoric type. We’re talking about wardrobe change. Spring’s around the corner so it’s time to get your seasonable wardrobe in line. By now you should be asking “How do I dress for spring?” We have a simple answer and it involves color and weight.
Start with the obvious approach and think lighter colors. Perk up your shirts with something brighter (think hunter green vs. apple green) and make sure your ties follow suit. When considering pattern, take it a step further and reach for a gingham as opposed to that standard check. By using both color and pattern, you’ll compound the effect and be in with the new.

To be out with the cold, take a committed approach and change fabrics altogether. As opposed to wearing the same suits year round, start opting for lighter-weight fabrics for spring and summer. Standard weights range from 8.5-9.5 ounces, while spring and summer weights will be 8 or less. By going lighter in weight, you can go darker in color without looking like you woke up in the wrong season.

Now that’s change we can believe in. Oops, there’s more of that rhetoric…

What would you do if you had to choose?

February 3, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File No comments

While it may seem that our friend Barney’s situation from CBS’s “How I met your Mother” is a little extreme, he does have a point: Nothing suits you like a suit! While most of us probably don’t have to face the heartache of choosing between a woman and our suits, it’s fun to revel in someone else’s decision – especially when it’s done musically! Click here to enjoy Barney’s predicament.

Spread ’em!

January 1, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File

No, we don’t have a warrant, but we do have suspicion. Suspicion that you’re wearing the same collar you did back in high school. Regardless of your motive for change, the New Year requires it. Start off by wrapping something new around your neck: The Spread Collar.

Beginning with terminology, the spread of a shirt simply refers to the distance between the points of the collar. While every collar technically has a spread to it (less the mandarin or stand-up collar), different spreads create different characters. A shirt with longer points and a narrow spread (aka straight point) should make you think of scenes from Goodfellas. While a wide spread collar, with a large gap between the points, should bring you to the floor on the London Stock Exchange. Let’s avoid the roughing up and talk about the latter option.

The Spread Collar is challenging the dominance of the point collar due not only to it’s British aesthetic (pair it with checks to take it to the next level), but also due to it’s ease of wearability. Collars are meant to frame one’s face, and The Spread has a tendency to flatter any facial structure, be it thin or wide.

Along with it’s good-for-anyone appearance, it’s perfectly suited to be worn alongside current trends. A slim tie, narrow lapels, and a tapered suit work just as well with The Spread Collar as does the conservative cut garment. Hold for one small detail: you must tie a Windsor knot!

To complete the look, a larger knot is required with the shirt; the large gap calls for a Windsor’s fullness to soak up the extra space. The perfectly symmetrical triangle of the aforementioned knot is the final detail to tie the look together.

So while it seems contradictory, be sure to frame yourself well in 2010. The Spread Collar can be your new accomplice.

(Psst.. not sure just how to tie a Windsor? Don’t feel guilty – give us a call and we’ll be glad to show you how it’s done the next time you’re in the area)

Off the Cuff

December 1, 2009 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File No comments

As the holidays encroach upon us and the Evites begin to stack up in our inboxes, you may find yourself asking “What should I wear to THAT party?” It only makes sense, for ‘tis the season for sartorial confusion. Is it a formal engagement? A casual gathering? What if I’m underdressed? Fear no more, there is a solution: The French Cuff shirt.

Both diplomatic and debonair, the French cuff is taking a stand in the American market. The folded back cuffs (better known as the Double Cuff across the pond, due to it’s bulkier appearance) are no longer held captive to the executive boardroom or the Groom’s wrist. They’ve also been making untucked appearances with denim and open collared encores with a modern sport coat. It’s precisely because of this versatility the French cuff is becoming a mainstay in the man’s wardrobe.

“Casual Fridays” are getting played out and men are realizing the need for a more professional appearance in the work place. Enter the French cuff. While they’re traditionally dressier, wearing it in an non-traditional, unbuttoned fashion (no tie, 1 or 2 buttons, relaxed) can sneak a touch of formality to your Fridays. Not to mention, this style easily transitions to happy hour martini attire.

The popularity is also embracing the fact that one’s wardrobe can (and should!) reflect your personality; cufflinks are integral part in doing so. With your timepiece acting as the solo accessory, cufflinks offer a certain level of finesse without overcomplicating a look. Whether you’re conservative with simple sterling links or the nautical anchor-wearing type, your choice of cufflink says something about you.

And you don’t even have to mention your yacht.

Top this Coat

November 3, 2009 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File

top coat You see it on the street: shorter, trimmer cut suits. Whether you like them or not is up to you, but one thing is for sure: the fashion industry does. As we buckle down and brace for winter, it doesn’t matter how well your suit fits if it looks like you’re wearing a Snuggie over it.

You know the look I’m talking about. The over sized wool topcoat that comes in any color as long as it’s black. So if you’re liking the trimmer suit, then maybe it’s time you invested in a trimmer cut topcoat to match your taste and physique. This is how to go about it.

First, you’ll want the coat cut like your suit coat: with shape. Forget raglan shoulders and opt for a harder line. It will accentuate a tapered fit. In terms of length, cut it right above the knees. Not only will it make you a bit taller, but it will be easier to manage if you find yourself sitting during your daily commute. Trimmer still? Pinch the waist in

Lastly, be bold and dare for something other than the Model-T black. Think charcoals, navys, even camels. Throw some texture in and opt for a herringbone, tweed, or corduroy. You can even pattern it up and do a pinstripe or windowpane.

The beauty of having a custom coat is that it’s yours to shape up. Peruse a few of the styling options available in our Collection. Or if you’re just sick of being cold, schedule an appointment today to warm up.

Double B’s

October 6, 2009 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File No comments

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Who knew recycling was fashionable? When we think of fashion, we think of “newness” or styles we’ve never seen before, but that’s generally not the case. Designers simply put a twist on something old and call it new. Consider this month’s topic: The Double Breasted suit.

Sold in nearly equal numbers to the single-breasted suit prior to World War II, it’s virtually disappeared from the rack. That is until it started popping up again in the likes of GQ and other fashion magazines. So what makes this suit style remarkable the second time around?

First and foremost, consider the shoulder structure. The classic DB, ever the epitome of masculinity, had heavily padded shoulders that broaden the chest and emphasized a V-cut torso. It was also cut rather boxier. Today, you’ll notice far less structure to a shoulder, yet it still maintains a masculine look.

How? The notches of the lapel are placed higher on the jacket and it’s much more fitted through the waist. By creating a longer line from the shoulder to the waist, it emphasizes the V-cut look, albeit through different means. Remember, clothing is all about proportion. So before you design your perfect DB, keep these subtle cues in mind.